Lob & Kritik » Chopard 168619-3003 Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph

Smaller and brighter: the new Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Mille Miglia still exists. I know Chopard seems to be all LUC and Alpine Eagle these days, but I promise the Mille Miglia - which honors the legendary Italian road race of the same name - is very much alive and well. In fact, every year Chopard releases a Competition version with an external tachymeter bezel (this was last year), and the Classic version also has its fair share of LEs. But after years of special editions, the Chopard Mille Miglia collection is about to get a makeover, and that's exactly what Watches and Wonders 2023 brings. Now in a smaller case in the brand's proprietary Lucent Steel, including a two-tone version with rose gold, the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is more attractive than ever.

The biggest update is the case, the Mille Miglia has been reduced in size from 42mm to 40.5mm, which is in line with current trends and I believe almost everyone will welcome it. The bezel and crystal have also been updated: a "glass box" sapphire crystal replaces the flat one for a more retro vibe, while a thinner polished bezel gives the dial some breathing room. Although the case size has been reduced by 1.5 mm, some of that size will be made up by a thinner bezel, which makes the dial and watch appear larger. The case thickness has increased from 12.67mm to 12.88mm thanks to the new domed crystal; while it’s not a huge leap, it’s more noticeable since the case diameter has also been reduced. Overall, all these dimensional changes will likely result in only slightly different wrists, and lugs with more pronounced curves will help with that. The three color dials come with perforated leather straps that mimic leather driving gloves, while the black dials have cool rubber straps that mimic the treads of 1960s Dunlop racing tires; all four feature redesigned pin buckle closures.

Chopard also upgraded the case to its proprietary Lucent Steel. This includes textured brake pedal buttons, a knurled steering wheel crown, and welded lugs. I know "Lucent Steel" sounds like some sort of Blue Steel vs. Magnum gimmick, but the difference is real, and I'll quote our own review of the 2020 Alpine Eagle XL Chrono to help you understand:

Lucent Steel is the best looking steel I have ever seen on any watch. It is so white (because its color is neutral and only changes when it reflects yellow light or a colored surface), so bright, and finished with such apparent uniformity,

Lucent Steel is an ethical, sustainable, double-forged steel alloy that took the brand four years to develop. You can read more in our article launching the Alpine Eagle series. The two-tone style also features Lucent Steel, while the bezel, crown, and buttons are ethically sourced 18k rose gold.

The new Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is available in four styles: Verde Chiaro (light green), Rosso Amarena (cherry red), Nero Corsa (racing black) and Grigio-Blue (gray blue). Since you know Italian, I can tell you that the red, green and gray blue dials all have a circular satin brushed finish, while the black dial has what the brand calls a moto finish, which I call perlage (although I Agree with the branding, it's reminiscent of one of those vintage metal dashboards). The whole idea of the different colored dials is to create a deeper connection with the race car. Chopard, while possibly inspired by racing cars, has not specified which car, which would add a little depth to the watch's story. That said, I admit that some race cars are green, some are red, some are black, and I'm sure some are even grey-blue.

The overall layout and style of the new one is almost identical to the previous generation, with two chronograph dials, a small second at 3 o'clock, and a date wheel at 4:30 in a color scheme (I'd rant an extra paragraph if it weren't for the color scheme) . One change is from a simple white line around the registers to a thick border scale. Also, the registers no longer indicate their respective units. While I can't confirm it, I believe the brand has also shrunk the hour numerals, which are filled with Super-LumiNova on the sword-shaped hands. Each of the four dials is decorated with the red "1000 Miglia" logo, and there is a matching tip on the chronograph seconds hand for a pop of color.

Chopard has not specified which movement is used in the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph, but we do know that the previous model used the ETA 2894-2 modular automatic chronograph movement. Aside from some stripes on the rotor and the brand name in gold, the movement does not appear to be any more refined than other high-end ETAs, with some pearling on the bridges and blued screws. The ETA 2894-2 delivers 42 hours of power at 28,800 vph, and the brand says it's COSC certified for -4/+6 seconds per day.

One of the biggest challenges for a brand that associates itself and a particular model with anything external to the watch is finding the balance between communicating that connection and alienating those who don't care. To be sure, sometimes when dealing with very specific externalities, brands often just throw such considerations on the back burner (e.g. TAG Heuer's Mario Kart watch). Brands can strike a balance when dealing with wider ties, as Chopard has done with the new Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph. These watches are beautiful whether you care about racing or not - and if you do, even better.